Developments:

A wander round the poor district of Jamestown is an intense experience. The stench of open sewers and acrid-smelling food, noise blaring from a thousand radios, children soaping themselves in front of their shacks, and grown-ups shouting to each other across the street and scolding errant offspring make for a cacophonous assault on the senses.

Even here, though, there are signs of development. The streets between the shacks are paved, hefty fish and plump fruit and vegetables are on sale in the market, foreign exchange bureaus serve those who have received remittances from relatives abroad, and everybody seems to have something to sell. There is a surprising number, too, of men and women in suits, a few foreign-made cars roll slowly through the streets, and telephone exchanges abound. Old, chaotic Jamestown, it seems, like the rest of Accra, is on the way up.